Paris, from the seine to saint-ouen

Choosing a hotel in Paris is almost as much fun as planning what to do once you arrive. From grand palace hotels to smaller addresses with a more residential feel, each offers a different way to experience the city. Le Bristol Paris, on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, is a favorite for classic French luxury. There’s a beautiful interior garden, an indoor rooftop pool and a sense of elegance throughout. Food is part of the appeal, too, with restaurants including Epicure and 114 Faubourg, as well as the hotel’s own food workshops. La Réserve Paris has a more intimate, residential feel while keeping you close to the shopping around rue Saint-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne. Its spa and indoor pool make a welcome retreat after a day on your feet.

Overlooking the Seine, Cheval Blanc Paris offers a more contemporary take on luxury. The interiors are refined, the Dior Spa is a destination in itself, and La Samaritaine is close enough to make a little shopping very tempting. For timeless Parisian glamour, Hôtel Plaza Athénée is difficult to resist. Its red awnings and flower-filled balconies are instantly recognizable, while La Galerie makes an elegant setting for lunch or afternoon tea. Saint James Paris is something of a surprise: a château hotel set behind gates in the 16th arrondissement, with gardens that make the city feel a little farther away. For a smaller stay on the Right Bank, consider Hôtel des Grands Boulevards. In the Marais, Le Grand Mazarin brings a more colorful personality to its rooms and public spaces, with a pool and hammam to enjoy between outings.

Some of the best time in Paris is spent sitting down. Find a table at Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, order a coffee and watch the neighborhood go by. Yes, both are famous. That doesn’t make a terrace table any less enjoyable. For something a little more indulgent, Angelina on rue de Rivoli is known for its Belle Époque tea room and rich hot chocolate. Add a pastry and give yourself time to enjoy the setting. From there, wander toward the Seine, browse a bookstore or stop at a gallery along the way. And if another café catches your eye, there’s no reason not to stop again.

Paris has a restaurant for every mood: the old-fashioned bistro, the elegant dining room, the lively terrace and the place you choose because the people-watching is simply too good. L’Ami Louis is an old-school Paris institution, with wood-paneled walls, a zinc bar and a menu of French classics. The roast chicken is particularly well known, but expect generous portions and a restaurant that inspires strong opinions. For a candlelit bistro dinner, consider Bistro des Tournelles in the Marais. La Poule au Pot offers another traditional Parisian setting, while Allard is known for classics including duck with green olives. In the 11th arrondissement, Bistrot Paul Bert is another address for a classic French meal. Its bistro setting and straightforward cooking make it an appealing choice when steak and a good dessert are exactly what you have in mind.

On Avenue Montaigne, L’Avenue is the place for a long lunch with a fashionable crowd. Take a terrace table, order something lovely to drink and enjoy the people-watching—especially if you’re planning an afternoon among the boutiques nearby. For a meal with the Eiffel Tower in view, Girafe is known for seafood, while Monsieur Bleu offers another setting for lunch or dinner near the Palais de Tokyo. Loulou, beside the Louvre, is an appealing choice when Italian food and a garden outlook are calling. For a more intimate evening, Verjus, near the Palais Royal, offers a seasonal tasting menu. And for a relaxed lunch in the Marais, explore the Marché des Enfants Rouges. The historic covered market has an array of food stalls, from Moroccan couscous and Lebanese dishes to crêpes and fresh pasta. Take a look around and choose whatever tempts you. For cocktails, Bar Hemingway at the Ritz is a small, atmospheric address with plenty of literary character. At Le Tout-Paris in Cheval Blanc, the views across the city are part of the occasion.

Paris is a pleasure to shop, whether you’re looking for a piece from a favorite fashion house, something beautiful for your home or a discovery to bring back from the markets. Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is an outing in itself. Its interconnected markets are filled with dealers and galleries offering everything from antique furniture and lighting to jewelry and decorative objects. At Marché Paul Bert Serpette, explore collectible design and beautifully restored furniture. Marché Biron is known for its antiques, while Marché Vernaison has smaller stalls and winding passages where it’s easy to spend an afternoon. For a more manageable market visit, try Marché de Vanves. It’s a good place to browse for something smaller to take home, from tableware to decorative finds.

A visit to Le Bon Marché makes shopping feel like an occasion. The fashion and home departments are worth exploring, but leave time for La Grande Épicerie, too. Pick up cheese, chocolate, pastries or something special for a picnic. On the Right Bank, La Samaritaine brings together fashion, beauty and luxury labels in a landmark department store close to the Seine. Printemps, on Boulevard Haussmann, is another of the city’s grand shopping destinations, with an impressive selection of fashion and beauty.

For luxury fashion, spend time along rue Saint-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne, where many of the major French and international houses have boutiques. Visit Celine for its polished, understated take on Parisian style. On nearby rue Cambon, the original Chanel at 31 Rue Cambon is an address with a particularly rich fashion history. For a more relaxed interpretation of French style, Sézane is a lovely stop for knitwear, dresses and pieces that are easy to wear every day. Its Paris Appartement is designed to feel like a welcoming home rather than a conventional boutique. In the Marais, Merci brings fashion, homewares and objects together in one inviting space. It’s a good stop if you enjoy discovering pieces for your home as much as adding to your wardrobe.

For clothing, Lemaire is known for understated pieces with beautiful proportions. L/Uniform makes canvas bags with leather details—practical enough for travel and stylish enough to carry long after you get home. For collectors and interiors lovers, Laffanour Galerie Downtown showcases twentieth-century French design, including work by Charlotte Perriand and Jean Prouvé. For fragrance and beauty, visit Officine Universelle Buly. Its boutiques evoke an old apothecary, and the presentation is almost as tempting as the products themselves. When you’re ready for a change of pace, Ogata in the Marais brings together a tea house, gallery and design space in a serene setting.

The Jardin du Luxembourg is a lovely place to pause between Paris plans—or to make the gardens the plan. Find one of the green chairs and watch the afternoon unfold. Children sail wooden boats on the central pond, friends meet along the paths, and there’s usually someone settled in with a book nearby. From here, continue into Saint-Germain-des-Prés. With its galleries, historic cafés and elegant boutiques, it’s a neighborhood that invites you to explore on foot, whether you’re looking for something specific or simply enjoying the streets.

An evening along the Seine is one of the simplest pleasures in Paris. Walk from Pont Alexandre III toward Île Saint-Louis as the light changes, or choose a shorter stretch and spend time along the riverbanks. Bridges, boats and illuminated buildings make a beautiful backdrop for an evening stroll. If you’d rather see Paris from the water, an evening river cruise offers another perspective as the city begins to light up.

Close to the Louvre, the Palais-Royal is an elegant place to spend a quieter hour. Its gardens are framed by arcades, with independent boutiques, galleries and places to stop for coffee tucked beneath the colonnades. Browse the shops, take a seat in the garden and give yourself a little time before moving on. Paris has a way of making those moments between plans feel every bit as rewarding as the places you came to see.