The south of france, from provence to the riviera

Villa La Coste is an especially appealing choice if you love art, architecture and wine. Set among the vines at Château La Coste, the hotel shares its estate with a remarkable collection of contemporary works. Give yourself time to explore the grounds; there’s plenty to discover beyond the comfort of your suite. In the Luberon, Airelles Gordes occupies a grand eighteenth-century bastide overlooking the village and countryside. The interiors are richly detailed, and the views from the pool might make you rethink how much you planned to do that afternoon.

On the coast, Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel, has the gardens, Mediterranean views and sense of occasion that make a classic Riviera stay so appealing. Set at the tip of the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula, it’s a place to leave time simply to enjoy the hotel.

Gordes is one of Provence’s most photographed villages, and seeing its stone buildings rise above the Luberon countryside is every bit as striking as you’d hope. Nearby, Roussillon is a village of ochre and warm red façades, while Ménerbes is lovely for a wander and a look around its antique dealers. If you enjoy the hunt as much as the purchase, make your way to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Its Sunday antique market is filled with furniture, vintage linens and the sort of unexpected finds that have you wondering how much space is left in your suitcase.

At the foot of the Alpilles, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence deserves time on your itinerary, too. Van Gogh lived and painted at nearby Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, and the Wednesday market brings olives, cheeses, honey, herbs and lavender into the town’s streets. Go hungry, take a basket and see what you find.

As you make your way toward the Mediterranean, the scenery changes and the Riviera comes into view. There’s a little more bustle, a little more glamour and, of course, that beautiful blue sea. Nice is a wonderful place to begin. Walk along the Promenade des Anglais, explore the narrow streets of Vieux Nice and spend a morning at the Cours Saleya market. Between the flowers, fresh produce and cafés, it’s easy to see how a quick visit could turn into a leisurely morning. Stay into the evening if you can. A walk beside the water as the light begins to change is a lovely way to end the day.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a place I remember as being particularly lovely. Perched on a hilltop above the countryside, the village has narrow stone lanes, galleries and a long connection to artists including Chagall, Matisse and Picasso. Just outside the village, the Fondation Maeght brings modern art and sculpture together in a beautiful setting. Take your time in the gardens as well as the galleries; works by artists including Miró and Giacometti are displayed among the trees.

For lunch, La Colombe d’Or is an address with art woven into its history. Over the years, artists who spent time here contributed works that became part of the hotel and restaurant’s collection. The terrace is a lovely setting for a meal, with the added pleasure of knowing a little of the story behind it.

In the hills above Cannes, Grasse has a long connection to French perfumery. Flowers grown in the surrounding region, including jasmine and rose, have supplied fragrance makers for generations. If you’ve ever wondered what goes into creating a perfume, the town’s fragrance houses offer an opportunity to learn more. Leave time for the old town, too, with its streets and shops providing a change from the bustle of the coast.

Saint-Tropez is glamorous, lively and especially busy in summer—and that’s part of the fun. The harbor fills with yachts, the cafés offer excellent people-watching, and the streets behind the waterfront are worth exploring when you’re ready to step away from the scene. A few kilometers away, Pampelonne Beach is home to Club 55, a Riviera institution whose history is tied to Brigitte Bardot and the filming of And God Created Woman. Come for the beach, settle in for lunch and enjoy a little of that Saint-Tropez atmosphere. For another side of the peninsula, head to Ramatuelle. Its narrow stone lanes, pale houses and bougainvillea-covered walls make it an appealing place to spend an hour or two. Nearby, Loulou Ramatuelle is another option for a beach day and a leisurely lunch, with the Mediterranean close at hand.

La Guérite, on Île Sainte-Marguerite just off Cannes, makes lunch feel like an outing: the restaurant is on an island, so getting there involves a trip across the water. Once there, settle in for Mediterranean cooking and views across the bay. Back on the mainland, La Petite Maison Cannes is another address for Mediterranean dishes and a lively Riviera atmosphere. On Cap Ferrat, Paloma Beach offers clear water and a beautiful setting among the pines. It’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon by the sea.

And if you enjoy beautiful houses and gardens, don’t miss Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. The pink Belle Époque villa sits on the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula, surrounded by gardens overlooking the Mediterranean. Give yourself time to explore both the house and the grounds—there’s plenty here to appreciate.

Antibes was my favorite place on this trip, and one of the most charming towns I’ve visited in France. What I remember most is the atmosphere at night: people out walking and eating, street musicians performing, and a lively energy that felt wonderfully French. It’s the kind of place where an evening stroll is an experience in itself. During the day, visit the Picasso Museum at Château Grimaldi, where the artist lived and worked for a period in 1946. The collection includes paintings, drawings and ceramics, with the Mediterranean just beyond the museum walls. Afterward, wander through the covered Provençal market and look for a piece of hot socca, the region’s chickpea-flour specialty. It makes a very good snack while you explore.

Farther along the coast, Èze is perched high above the sea. Stone passageways wind through the medieval village toward the Jardin Exotique, where the views stretch along the Riviera. Wear comfortable shoes, take the climb at your own pace and allow time to enjoy the view once you reach the top.

What’s especially appealing about the South of France is that you can shape a trip around whatever you love most. Follow the art from vineyard to village, spend your days browsing markets and antiques, or choose a beautiful hotel and enjoy some time by the sea. Personally, a little of each sounds rather perfect.