discover ho chi minh city with tracie may: your guide to food, fashion and fabulous finds

Ho Chi Minh City is incredibly vibrant. I’ve been fortunate to call it home for nearly five years now, and it’s evolving every day. It’s the most rapid urban development I’ve ever experienced, pandemic notwithstanding. Even within the bubble of my neighborhood, I’m always discovering new bars, ultra-lounges, restaurants, and shops. There’s so much to do and experience. Living here and witnessing its blossoming and growth, just as I have grown, is truly incredible.

Ho Chi Minh City has a vibrant food scene. What are your go-to spots for an authentic Vietnamese meal, and where do you love to dine for a more upscale or fusion experience?

This is a loaded question for me, LOL. I was the Senior Editor at Epicure Vietnam magazine for two years and regularly experienced some of the most incredible food imaginable. Saigon is a culinary paradise with endless choices, each one seemingly better than the last. Whether I’m craving a loaded Bánh Mì, Vietnamese-style sandwich, or a bowl of Phở Đặc Biệt from a street vendor, the options here are endless. If I absolutely had to choose, for an utterly sublime modern Vietnamese meal, you must try Ănăn Saigon, my friend Peter Cuong Franklin’s place.  It’s Michelin-starred, earning accolades for two consecutive years, 2023 and 2024, shortly after Michelin started recognizing Vietnam. It’s also listed among Asia’s 50 Best. Insanely delicious!

Then, there’s Nén Light, curated by my unbelievably talented friends Summer and Leon Le, selected twice by Michelin. Their sister restaurant, Nén Danang won the coveted Michelin Green Star for Sustainability in 2024, making it not only the first and only restaurant in Vietnam to achieve this recognition but also the only Vietnamese restaurant to win it globally. Pretty freaking cool, I must say. If I were to choose just one Vietnamese fusion restaurant, and believe me, there are many, it would be OKRA FoodBar in my neighborhood of Thao Dien. My friend Jamie Celaya, a Chicago native and the Chef/Owner, creates really innovative and spectacular dishes, utilizing spices and flavor profiles unique to Vietnam, infused into Western dishes. Okra is Michelin Selected too.

What’s great about the food scene here is that it’s actually affordable and attainable. If you placed Ănăn Saigon in West Hollywood, dinner for two with cocktails and glasses of  wine would probably run you $1,000 USD ++. But here, you can dine at the finest restaurants for the same price or cheaper than a pizza and beer for two in Santa Monica. I am really, REALLY spoiled.

Where would you take a first-time visitor to show them the best of the city’s nightlife and cultural entertainment?

A: Hmmm. When it comes to nightlife, I’m honestly not much of a club person. I prefer the ultra-lounge vibe. But if I had to pick one, it would be Zion Sky Lounge & Dining. It’s a rooftop club where you can book a table with bottle service and get your dance on.  For a cultural experience, the À Ố Show at the Saigon Opera House is an absolute must. It’s reminiscent of a Cirque du Soleil experience, but VERY Vietnamese. Truly spectacular.

As someone who has a keen eye for lifestyle and design, how would you describe Ho Chi Minh City’s style? Are there any local artists, designers, or boutiques you love that capture the city’s creative spirit?

A: Oh absolutely!  The city legitimately bursts with creativity! I’m a huge supporter of the Vietnamese fashion scene and attend Vietnam International Fashion Week each season as the fashion talent here is truly phenomenal!  I have a few favorite designers whose work I not only wear but also proudly promote due to their incredible talent. Among them, Chung Thanh Phong whose designs I rock, A LOT.

Tiny Ink by Quyen Hoang is my go-to for a modern Vietnamese look.  Valenciani Adrian Anh Tuan is another favorite, and I even had the fun of walking in his show last season during Vietnam International Fashion Week.  Thuy Design House is beloved for her prints, as is Tsafari by Ho Tran Da Thao.  And, then there’s KHAAR … a STUNNING sustainable fashion brand I’m completely obsessed with.  So, that’s fashion, and now art.

There are countless talented artists here, but there’s only one for me – my brother-from-another-mother,  Jérôme Peschard AKA Skullface.   He’s a French artist who came to Vietnam, fell in love with Saigon, and never left, like me. He’s a composite pop artist known for his large-scale oil paintings on recycled metal, depicting French Indochina, cities across the globe, and pop-culture icons. He also does custom commission work and created a painting for me that captures my life’s journey from growing up in NYC, living in Los Angeles, to finally settling in Ho Chi Minh City. I gave him some references, but he, although knowing me well, still went Google deep and manifested my life and soul in a painting. It’s astonishing how deeply he sees and feels people. I’m a total fangirl, blown away by his extraordinary talent.

That’s an easy one. Tourists tend to always flock to Bến Thành Market in District 1, as it’s famous, listed in all the guides, one of the ‘must-dos’ when you’re here. Personally, though, it’s my Kryptonite. I avoid it at all costs unless a friend visiting insists on going because they read about it. For the best souvenirs and Vietnamese collectibles, I always recommend Saigon Kitsch. It’s a three-floor boutique, and they offer the best curated selection of souvenirs and collectibles in the city. They produce these super cool bags in every shape and size, made from recycled Vietnamese rice sacks; I’ve given countless ones as gifts to friends. Another great spot is amaï house, which makes beautiful ceramics.  My bestie Jen and her mom went crazy in their store when they visited me last year, and brought back a ton to New York City. They even bought an extra suitcase to transport their haul, as they ran out of room in the luggage they brought. The pieces are very chic.  Oh, and if your a gin fan, pick up a bottle of Lady Trieu.  It’s produced in small batches at a distillery near Cu Chi Tunnels, another tourist attraction here, utilizing  the finest botanicals sourced throughout Vietnam. The Dalat Flowerbomb is my favorite.  And they recently started importing to the USA, so if you find you can’t live without it—which you will—you’re in luck!

How does the local culture influence day-to-day life in Ho Chi Minh City? Are there particular traditions or experiences that you feel visitors shouldn’t miss?

The Vietnamese people hold a deep attachment to their culture and rich heritage, with numerous celebrations dedicated to various traditions throughout the year. At the entrance of every establishment or building here, you’ll find an altar adorned with offerings of incense, food, beverages, and even cans of beer and packs of cigarettes. These are places where people pray to their ancestors and the deities or spirits their religious beliefs honor.

But the biggest celebration is Tết, the Lunar New Year, marking the arrival of spring according to the Lunar calendar. It usually occurs in late January or early February. Tết is a time of renewal, family reunions, community bonding, and cultural rituals. Visiting Saigon during this season, as the city bursts into a colorful, lit-up tapestry of fresh flowers and festive activities, is an incredible experience. It’s my favorite time of the year in my adopted home.

What are some lesser-known spots in Ho Chi Minh City that you think deserve more attention? Whether it’s a café, gallery, or park, what places do you feel really capture the city’s charm?

A: It seems like there’s a café every 20 yards here, but there’s one I absolutely adore –  Soko Cake Bake & Brunch.  They whip up fun coffee creations, boozy Boba Thai Tea, and the most decadent, delicious pastries you can imagine. With two locations in District 1 and another in Thao Dien where I live, it’s my go-to spot when I’m feeling indulgent.

Another must-have local experience here is Vinh Khanh Street in District 4, better known as Snail Street. This long strip of restaurants specializes in Ốc (snails) and seafood. You sit on small plastic stools, pick your pleasure, drink Tiger beer in a big mug with ice, and gorge yourself. It’s really fun, quintessentially Vietnamese, and one of my favorite evenings out in the city.

If you had just 48 hours to show someone the best of Ho Chi Minh City, what would be on your itinerary?

Only 48 hours huh? Ok, challenge accepted! I would recommend staying at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, as It’s centrally located in the heart of District 1. The rooms are lovely, the staff is incredibly accommodating, and the morning breakfast buffet is fantastic. Plus, there’s a nice rooftop pool with a bar, and a well-appointed gym to help you unwind.

Day 1: Start the day with some sightseeing in District 1. Take in the French architecture such as the Saigon Central Post Office, Saigon Notre Dame Cathedral, and maybe pop into the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts and Independence Palace. Nguyen Hue Walking Street is also a must-see, especially during Tết. Since District 1 is the fashion hub, indulge in a shopping spree with my aforementioned fave fashion designers, then head to Saigon Square for top quality “designer fakes” for fun, and wrap up at Saigon Kitsch for some unique souvenirs. For lunch, stop at the Park Hyatt or grab a Lobster Roll at Soko Cake Bake and Brunch. Afterward, relax with a dip in the Sofitel pool to recharge. For the evening, start at  Ministry – Social Club at the Sofitel, a super stylish craft cocktail bar, then head to Ănăn Saigon for dinner.If you’re up for it, explore the vibrant nightlife of District 1 or 3 to wrap up the night.

Day 2: After breakfast, take a Grab (Vietnam’s version of Uber), or better yet, book a car & driver through TravelThru, the best concierge level transportation company in Vietnam, to Thao Dien in District 2 for some serious pampering.

Cap off the night with a visit to Bui Vien Walking Street for some wild people-watching. Known as Saigon’s version of Times Square, this “backpackers’ area” comes alive on a Saturday night with fire-breathers, go-go dancers, and blaring music. It’s sensory overload but worth the experience, even if only for an hour.

And that’s it! Two unforgettable days in Saigon, Tracie May style.